Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is a chronic, itchy skin condition that thrives on dryness, irritation, and a compromised skin barrier. While a gentle cleansing routine won't cure eczema, the right soap can soothe flare‑ups, lock in moisture, and reduce the likelihood of further irritation. Below is a guide to the most eczema‑friendly ingredients you'll want to look for---or include if you're formulating your own soap.
Why Soap Choice Matters
- pH Balance: Healthy skin has a slightly acidic pH (≈5.5). Conventional soaps often have a pH of 9--10, which can strip natural oils and aggravate eczema.
- Surfactant Mildness: Harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate) remove lipids essential for barrier repair.
- Additive Sensitivity: Fragrances, dyes, and preservatives are common triggers for eczema flare‑ups.
A soap that is low‑pH, sulfate‑free, and enriched with skin‑soothing actives can make a noticeable difference.
Core Ingredient Categories
| Category | Primary Goal | Typical Ingredients |
|---|---|---|
| Moisturizing & Barrier‑Repair | Replenish lipids, prevent transepidermal water loss | Shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, glycerin, ceramides, jojoba oil, coconut oil (fractionated), olive oil |
| Anti‑Inflammatory & Calming | Reduce redness, itching, and inflammation | Colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera gel, chamomile extract, calendula extract, licorice root, niacinamide |
| Antimicrobial (Gentle) | Keep the skin surface free of harmful microbes without harshness | Manuka honey, propolis, tea tree (used sparingly), lavender essential oil (low concentration) |
| Hydrating Humectants | Draw water into the stratum corneum | Glycerin, hyaluronic acid (low‑MW), panthenol (pro‑vitamin B5) |
| Antioxidant Protectors | Neutralize free radicals caused by inflammation | Vitamin E (tocopherol), green tea extract, rosemary extract |
Top Individual Ingredients
1. Colloidal Oatmeal (Avena Sativa)
- What it does: Forms a protective film, soothes itching, and provides a mild anti‑inflammatory effect.
- How it works: Contains avenanthramides---natural antihistamines---that calm skin redness.
2. Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii)
- What it does: Rich in stearic and oleic acids, it restores the lipid barrier and offers deep moisturization.
- Why it's great for eczema: Low allergenicity and contains vitamins A & E for additional skin healing.
3. Glycerin (Vegetable‑Derived)
- What it does: A humectant that pulls ambient moisture into the outer skin layers.
- Formulation tip: Aim for 5--10 % glycerin in the final soap to achieve a silky, non‑dry feel.
4. Ceramides (Skin‑Barrier Lipids)
- What they do: Mimic the skin's own ceramide profile, sealing in moisture and reducing TEWL (transepidermal water loss).
- Best source: Plant‑derived phytoceramides or synthetic analogs (e.g., Ceramide NP) that are safe for surfactant‑based systems.
5. Aloe Vera Gel
- What it does: Provides cooling relief and anti‑inflammatory polysaccharides.
- Use: Add as a liquid phase (10--15 % of the aqueous portion) to preserve its bioactivity.
6. Chamomile & Calendula Extracts
- What they do: Both are rich in flavonoids and essential oils that calm inflammation without being sensitizing.
- Dosage: 0.5--2 % of total formulation; avoid high levels of essential oils that could irritate.
7. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- What it does: Improves barrier function, reduces redness, and boosts ceramide synthesis.
- Optimal concentration: 2--4 % for noticeable benefits without causing irritation.
8. Manuka Honey
- What it does: Offers gentle antimicrobial properties and retains moisture due to its high sugar content.
- In soap: Use 2--5 % in the oil phase; heat‑sensitive, so add after the melt‑and‑pour stage if possible.
9. Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
- What it does: Acts as an antioxidant, protecting both skin and the soap's oils from oxidation.
- How much: 0.5--1 % of the total oil phase.
10. Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis)
- What it does: Structurally similar to human sebum, it balances oil production and adds a non‑greasy slip.
- Usage: 5--10 % of the oil blend, often paired with heavier butters for a balanced melt point.
Ingredients to Avoid
| Ingredient | Reason for Exclusion |
|---|---|
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) | Aggressive surfactant that strips lipids |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) | Still harsh for compromised barriers |
| Synthetic Fragrances & Dyes | Common allergens and irritants |
| Parabens & Formaldehyde‑Releasers | Potential sensitizers |
| Essential Oils in High Doses | Can be phototoxic or irritating (e.g., citrus oils) |
| Alcohol (Ethanol) in the Final Rinse | Excessive drying effect |
If a product lists "unscented" but still contains fragrance masking agents, it's best to skip it.
Practical Formulation Tips
- Target a pH of 5--6.5 -- Adjust with citric acid or lactic acid after cooling.
- Choose Mild Surfactants -- Opt for sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) , decyl glucoside , or coco glucoside instead of traditional soaps.
- Incorporate a Dual‑Phase System -- Combine an oil‑in‑water (O/W) emulsified base with a surfactant "cream" for extra slip without a high surfactant load.
- Preservation -- Since you're avoiding harsh antimicrobials, consider phenoxyethanol + ethylhexylglycerin (<1 % total) which is generally well‑tolerated.
- Testing -- Conduct a patch test on a small skin area for at least 48 hours before full‑body use.
- Packaging -- Use opaque, airtight containers to protect sensitive ingredients like vitamin E and herbal extracts from oxidation.
Quick "Eczema‑Friendly" Soap Recipe (DIY)
| Ingredient | % (by weight) |
|---|---|
| Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) | 30 |
| Decyl Glucoside | 15 |
| Shea Butter | 10 |
| Mango Butter | 5 |
| Jojoba Oil | 5 |
| Glycerin (vegetable) | 8 |
| Colloidal Oatmeal (finely milled) | 5 |
| Aloe Vera Gel (pure) | 10 |
| Niacinamide | 2 |
| Vitamin E (tocopherol) | 0.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin blend | 0.5 |
| Distilled Water (adjust to 100 %) | -- |
| Citric Acid (to adjust pH) | -- |
Method Overview
- Melt the butters (shea & mango) and jojoba oil together, then cool to ~45 °C.
- Dissolve glycerin, niacinamide, and vitamin E into the oil blend.
- In a separate container, blend SCI, decyl glucoside, and distilled water; stir until uniform.
- Slowly add the oil phase into the surfactant phase while stirring gently to avoid excessive foam.
- Fold in colloidal oatmeal and aloe vera gel.
- Add the preservative blend and adjust pH to 5.5--6.0 with a dilute citric acid solution.
Pour into a silicone mold and let set for 24 h. Store in a cool, dark place.
Bottom Line
When it comes to eczema, the gentlest possible cleanse is the most therapeutic . A soap that combines low‑pH surfactants , moisturizing butters , barrier‑repair ceramides , and calming botanicals can significantly reduce itching, redness, and dryness. By steering clear of harsh detergents, synthetic fragrances, and known irritants, you'll create---or choose---a cleansing product that truly supports fragile, eczema‑prone skin.
Feel free to experiment with the ingredient list above and customize it to your personal sensitivities. Your skin will thank you.